One of the best things about being a session stylist is the amazing people that I get to work with. I thought it would be interesting to feature a few of my friends, and share with you their inspirations and thoughts.
James Molloy and I work together constantly, having met many years ago backstage. He has been a MAC senior artist for over six years and helps head up their education and training team, as well as keeping busy with edtorial, celebrity and advertising.
We have similar backgrounds, having both worked for many years in Milan, New York, Paris and London on the shows, and I also have had a close relationship with MAC. Seasonally after the shows MAC do a presentation day for all the beauty press and I have been responsible for the hair looks on these days. Now we also work as a team with celebrity clients getting them ready for red carpet events and going on tour with them. We have a lot of fun as well!
I love picking James’ brains about the make-up side of the shows and what he’s seen coming up for the next season. With 21 shows under his belt for AW/10 alone, including Chloe, Vivienne Westwood, Richard Nicoll and Sonia Rykiel, I’ve taken advantage of our 10-day promo trip together to get his view on all things make-up!
Liner Lover
When I started out as a make-up artist there were three things I felt I should master as soon as possible: the red lip, the smoky eye and the perfect black eye liner.
Liner, for me, is the ultimate classic eye make-up. It can be playfully kicked up at the corners, worn-in and sexy, or straight and tough-looking, but it always makes a statement about the wearer. Getting your liner right, however, is a whole other subject as many of my girlfriends will agree. Here are my top tips and products to help you get the liner you want.
1. Make sure that your liner brush is in good condition; you won’t get a sharp line if your brush bristles are bent.
2. Tip your head backwards when looking in the mirror. This will expose your eye lid and make it easier to draw your line.
3. Choose your texture. Some people feel more comfortable with a gel or a liquid but don’t be scared to map out your liner in pencil first.
4. Keep some cotton buds handy. I love using the Muji mini cotton buds for correcting any mistakes. They are really precise and can sharpen the edge of liner that’s started to get out of control.
5. For a totally jet black lash line, use an eye kohl on the upper rim of your eye lid. MAC’s Graphblack is perfect for this as it stays put for hours.
6. I love Elizabeth Arden’s smoky eye pencil in black as it’s really soft but dry so won’t smudge too much; it’s great for sketching out a rough line.
7. I’m really into using my Guerlain liquid liner at the moment as it has the perfect brush for creating a super-fine liner that’s not too over powering.
8. To make your liner really stand out set it against a beautifully creamy base.
My liner inspirations …
This is still a real liner moment for me, courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury for Louis Vuitton. (Above left)
Anita Eckberg in La Dolce Vita – this liner is referenced so much backstage at the shows and I love the strength of the angle. (Above middle)
No season goes by at the shows without many variations on the black liner and this season didn’t fail. My favourite looks were Blumarine, who had a take on the Fierce Fellini flick of La Dolce Vita fame; and Jeremy Scott, where Val Garland created a beautifully broken 60′s eye inspired by Julie Anne Moore in A Single Man. (Above right)
Blumarine – A softer take on a sharp shape. To get this black coffee eye, start with a black eye kohl inside the waterline then shape your flicks using a black gel liner and an angled brush. Soften the whole look by blending a rich brown shadow over the liner. (Above left)
Jeremy Scott – This look starts with a classic 50′s flick in a liquid line, with the rest of the lines following this as a guide. Use a pencil first to get your outline then, when your happy with the shape, go over it with a liquid or gel liner. (Above right)
