At the beginning of every shoot I build up a base of products in the hair to create the texture I need to work with that day – it’s a bit like building a foundation. Once this is done I can use heated tongs, crimpers or rollers on the hair and feel confident it will take hold immediately. I also have to be careful not to over shine or make the hair flaky because the lens and lighting will exaggerate any flaws.
I always use a mix of volume products, even if the finished look doesn’t need lift – I love the hold they give to any style.
For a soft texture with natural shine…
I love working with Frederic Fekkai. Starting with the underneath sections at the back I spray Instant Volume Root Lifting Spray on the first four inches of the roots. Next I cover the hair with Full Volume mousse. Then I take Kérastase Nectar Thermique or Ciment Thermique and work it through the last five inches of the lengths. I rough dry the hair and then blow out section by section, either with a large wooden bristle brush or a Mason Pearson brush. This gives a workable texture that holds a curl or a sleek look really well. I finally add an extra layer of Frederic Fekkai Full Volume Root Lift Spray to the top after it’s blown – I love the way this texture holds a back comb tease.
How to create a modern, dry texture…
This is my favourite texture and really popular at the moment.
I tend to use a lot of product, which dries quickly, so I usually blow out each section straight after applying the product – it’s also less damaging to the model’s hair. Spritz through Shu Uemura Art of Hair Depsea Repair Foundation, then follow with Tecni.art Volume Lift and – the magic product – Shu Uemura Liquid Fabric, which changes the hair completely. Blow out with a Mason Pearson brush and, if the hair is too soft, add more Liquid Fabric half way through drying. This creates an amazing texture for back combing or tonging. When the hair is dry add Klorane Dry Shampoo and thoroughly brush with a Mason Pearson.
